With mortgage rates at all time lows, it makes a lot of sense to fix in your rate and refinance at what may turn out to be the lowest real rates ever. Getting a fixed rate mortgage makes a whole lot of sense for any one who is pretty sure that they will be in their home for a long time. But even now, even with fixed rates as low as they are, fixed rate mortgages aren’t the right choice for everyone. Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs) are priced even lower, and though you are taking on some extra risk, they are the best choice for many. The question is, when does it make sense to go with an adjustable rate mortgage. ARMs are structured in different ways, but the most popular, and safest ARMs are the longer term adjustables which are fixed for a period of time before adjusting. Most ARMs amortize, or pay down, over 30 years, just like the most popular fixed rates. The difference is that the rate is only fixed in for a specific period of time, and then it floats, up or down based on what is happening in the market. The time that the rate is fixed in can be as short as one year, or as long as 10 years. The rates are usually lowest for the shortest periods because you are taking on more risk that the loan will be higher if mortgage rates increase. When you are looking at ARMs, you want to get the lowest total cost for the time you plan on being in the home (or the mortgage). Taking a 1 year or even a 3 year ARM rarely makes sense in a market like this. But a longer term may be a great deal. The 7-1 ARM (fixed for the first 7 years then adjusts once a year after that) is over 1/2 a point less than a comparable 30 year fixed rate mortgage. If you don’t plan to stay with your mortgage forever, this could save you thousands of dollars over the life of the loan.

Questions to ask to see if an Adjustable Rate Mortgage is the right choice for you:

How long do you think you will be in the home?  A lot of this has to do with where you are in life, and what you expect to happen in the future. Are you a single income now, but expect to have a spouse working down the road? Do you expect to out grow this home as your family grows? Do you expect to be transferred or are going to need to move out of the area at some point? Or maybe you are at the other end of the spectrum and have kids who are finishing up with school and are thinking about downsizing in the future. The key is that if you have a good understanding of your future needs, and you really don’t expect to be in the home past a certain point, an ARM may be the right choice.

Is your income steady, declining, or likely to go higher? Are you a single income now, but expect to have a spouse working down the road? Are you in a job where you know that your income will be higher as time goes by? If you feel confident that your income will rise, an adjustable could be a good way to go. On the other hand, if your income is likely to be topped out and you don’t expect raises of more than the cost of living in the future, you are better served by going with a fixed rate where you will know the payment is going to stay affordable, even if you are there longer than expected and interest rates jump.

Do you have extra money coming in that you can use to pay down the mortgage? I’ve worked with borrowers who get get bonus as a substantial amount of their compensation. If you are getting a smaller monthly payment, but a big check once or twice a year, it may be easier to keep the monthly payment small and then pay extra toward the mortgage when you get these big checks. ARMs fit in well here (Interest only mortgages are sometimes appropriate, too). Everyone’s circumstances are different. The best approach is to match your needs to the loan that is most appropriate for you.

What is your risk tolerance? Will you be able to sleep at night if rates do move higher? With mortgage rates at all time lows, we know that rates have to go up, the only question is when, and how much. If your circumstances change, and it looks like you will need to stay in the mortgage longer than you planned, is this going to add to your stress? There are safety features built in, but if you are still in the loan when the payment adjusts, it could be a big jump. You will have saved a lot of money up to that point, but unless you used the savings as part of an investment plan, you need to be ready for the higher payment. Consider your risk level and temperament before choosing an ARM. There are a lot of people who would benefit financially from and adjustable rate loan, who still are better off taking on a fixed rate loan.

The other thing to keep in mind when deciding which loan is right for you, is that the future doesn’t always turn out like we expect. There are a lot of homeowners now who are stuck in homes too small for their needs because they can’t afford to sell and buy a new home with the market conditions now. For most home buyers who took on ARMS years ago, their adjusted rates have fallen as the ARMs came due. That probably won’t happen in the future, but if you match up your real needs and an accurate estimate of what your situation will be over the years you plan to be in the home, an Adjustable Rate Mortgage can save you a lot.

Peter Thompson 630-479-6424       

Illinois Mortgage Rates                   First time home buyer loans

Chicago Mortgage Company

We live in interesting times. Over the last several years we have seen a series of refinance booms as rates dropped to what had previously been unthinkable rates. Each time rates dropped we were sure they couldn’t go any lower. But here we are again, and mortgage rates are the lowest they have been since they’ve been keeping track of mortgage rates. The reason for the drop in rates is due to fear of softness in the economy, and this isn’t good news. But when you , if you can save money by refinancing your mortgage this could help by lowering your monthly payment or cutting years off your loan and paying your house off early.

Why should you consider refinancing?

• You can lower your interest rate and payments.
• You can shorten your loan term and pay your mortgage off early.
• You can take cash out for home improvements, college expenses, investments, or whatever your needs may be.
• You can restructure your debts with a refinance to get rid of your high interest credit card balances and save hundreds of dollars per month.
• If you bought with a low down payment, you can often refinance to get rid of mortgage insurance or your higher rate second mortgage.

• You can get rid of an adjustable mortgage and lock in to a fixed rate.

These are just a few reasons you may want to take on a new mortgage. It is important, though, to make sure you know why you are refinancing and that it is really in your best interest. Refinancing isn’t the slam dunk easy transaction it was a few years ago. With home prices down this makes it harder for some homes to appraise out where they need to be, and mortgage guidelines are tighter than they were before, too.  But there are programs which make it easier to refinance even if you don’t have a lot of equity (or even no equity) in your home.

The FHA Streamline Refinance -This is available only if you already have an FHA mortgage. This is still the easiest and most inexpensive mortgage around. If you can lower your rate an payment you can refinance without a new appraisal and roll some of your costs into the new loan.

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac Home Affordable (Obama Refinance) – With these programs you can lower your mortgage rate even if your home value has gone down, and mortgage insurance will be based on what it was when you originally took on the loan (so if you didn’t have it then, you won’t have it now).

And of course, if you have been in your home for a while and have equity built up, you will have a lot of options to refinance in a way that best meets your long term needs. The big question then, is when does it make sense to refinance your mortgage? Refinancing can make a lot of sense if you are lowering your rate and payment without having to pay a lot up front. The more you have to pay to close the loan, the longer it will take for the lower mortgage payments to pay off the higher cost of getting the loan. This can still make sense if you are sure that you will be in the home for a long time, and you want to lock in the lowest rates. But too often the lowest rate isn’t the best value.

Mortgage pay Back – When does it make sense to refinance?

If you are thinking of refinancing your mortgage, you should always do a break even or pay back calculation. For this you need to know 3 things:

1. How much will you save by refinancing?
2. How much will it cost to refinance?
3. How long do you think you will stay in the home, and with this mortgage?

The first step is to determine how much you will save. For an example, if you now have a mortgage with a $200,000 balance and a 5.50% interest rate., your mortgage payment is about $1,135 per month. Now, if current rates are at 4.75% (this is only an example.  Call me if you want a personal quote) the new mortgage payment would be $1,043 per month. The lower rate means a savings of almost $92 each month. This is a great savings, especially when you look at it over the life of the loan, But does it make sense to refinance? Maybe. We still need to know more, though.

The next step is to find out how much it will cost to refinance. This is where it can get confusing. If you have spent any time on the Internet, you’ve seen lots of ads for mortgage companies claiming they offer the lowest rates. But low rates don’t mean a thing if you don’t look at the closing costs too. I’ve seen closing costs differ by as much as $6,000, so this is something that can make a huge difference. Closing costs include title fees, the cost of the appraisal and bank charges as well as points – which are upfront financing charges.

The difference in closing costs can make a big difference in whether the loan makes sense, or not. If you are paying $1,500 in total closing costs, it will take you a little over a year to payback the closing costs with the $92 savings from your new rate.  After that, every payment you make will be a true savings. But if that same loan cost $6,000 to close, then it would take over 5 years before you would get any benefit at all from refinancing. So the lowest rate isn’t always the best deal.

The last question, is how long you do you expect to be in your home and in the mortgage. If you plan to stay in the home for at least 10 years, then paying more to get a better rate might be the best strategy, especially if you think (like I do) that rates are about as low as they will ever go. But most people don’t stay in their home forever. If you aren’t sure how long you will stay in your home, you might be better served by getting a loan with lower closing costs. Even though the rate and payment may be a little higher, your savings will come much quicker.

No/Cost Illinois Mortgage Refinance

We can take this idea one step further. When rates are down, the biggest obstacle to homeowners lowering their payments and taking advantage of the low rates is the cost of refinancing. The more that the loan costs, the longer you will need to be in the new loan before refinancing makes sense. So if a loan costs a lot up-front, it takes a big improvement in the rates before it is worth doing. On the other hand, if there are no costs at all, a small reduction in the rates can save you a lot of money over time.

With a no-cost refinance we use the yield spread premium (the money that the wholesale or end lenders pay us to bring them the loan) to pay for the closing costs. When I price loans I have several different options. Every day the lenders we deal with send us new price sheets. These sheets have matrices which allow us (the mortgage banker or broker) to price the loan in different ways. It is common in the Chicago area to price a loan to show no points or origination fees, but with the customer paying the normal costs at closing. If someone wants a lower rate, I can price it so that they pay more money up-front (points) and get a lower interest rate. We can also do it the other way, offering you a slightly higher interest rate (where the lender pays us a higher premium) and we can use part of this premium to cover all your closing costs.

Here is how it works. If you have a mortgage with a balance of $250,000 and an interest rate of 5.75%, your loan would have a monthly payment of $1,458 for principal and interest. If rates drop. and you are able to refinance at 4.50%, your new payment will be $1,267, for a savings of $191 per month.

In order to do the loan with no closing costs, we raise the rate a little to cover the costs. How much the rate increases depends on the size of the loan, but in most cases the loan will be just an 1/8 or 1/4 point higher. So with our example, if you could refinance at 4.50% with closing costs, the rate would be 4.625% with no closing costs. So the payment now goes up to  $1,285 per month, or $17 per month higher. The monthly savings are lower, but with no closing costs , you have no investment in the mortgage at all. This works especially well for people who don’t plan on being in their home or their mortgage forever.

No-cost refinances work best when the loan amount is higher. In many cases we can do a no-cost refinance for the same rate as other companies are doing full cost loans. Smaller loans, those under $150,000 are harder to do without any cost. The smaller the loan the higher the interest rate would need to be in order to cover all the closing costs. This won’t be the best route for everyone, but, depending on your situation, it could be a great option.

Things to watch out for

A true no/cost refinance means that you are not paying any fees or costs to get the loan. This is different than adding the fees and costs back into the loan. This means that your mortgage will be larger, and you will be paying the costs of refinance over the years you have the loan. There is no money coming out of your pocket at closing but you are still investing extra money. If you sold the home or decided to refinance again later, the money you paid will be gone. In some situations this could be the right way to go, but it is not a no-cost refinance. You need to know exactly what it is you are signing up for.

Peter Thompson                              630-479-6424

Illinois Mortgage Rates                   First time home buyer loans

Chicago Mortgage Refinance

Another new change in the mortgage industry starts today, June 1^st – the adoption of the Fannie Mae Loan Quality Initiative. This initiative is an order from Fannie Mae, the largest buyer of mortgages in the mortgage aftermarket, that all lenders who want to sell them loans must do extra due diligence, and check to make sure that there are no red flags that the lender would have otherwise missed. Most of these changes are ones that have already been adopted over the last year, like running social security numbers through a data base to make sure they are correct, and pulling IRS tax transcripts on every transaction. But there is one new ingredient to this mix which is likely to throw the industry for a loop, and delay and in some cases blow up the closing on the last day. This new change is that starting with applications taken today, June 1^st, any loans sold to Fannie Mae will have to have a credit report run again on the day of funding to make sure that the borrower has not taken on any additional debt. If they have new accounts, or if they have inquiries on their credit report which means that they could have opened new credit but it hasn’t shown up yet, the loan has to go back to the underwriter and more research has to be done to see if this is a problem, or not.

This new underwriting overlay, like so many of the other changes, is a reaction to the soft real estate market and the high rate of foreclosures. Underwriting was way too lax before, which got us into this mess, but underwriters now are going out of their way to make sure that there is absolutely nothing in the file that could be used as an excuse for the end lender (the wholesale lender or Fannie Mae) to require that they buy back the loan if for some reason it does go bad. Overall, this is a good thing. Making risky loans is bad for everyone. But this new initiative is going to add a whole new level of uncertainty to every real estate transaction. So far all the extra checking and verifications that are part of the loan process have been things that we do at the beginning when we first take on the loan. This, coming at the end, means that you can never have a fully approved loan until the closing.

So many real estate transactions are links in a chain of sales where the seller of one home is buying another, and each transaction is subject to the closing of the prior transaction. If a first time home buyer on a sale at the beginning of the chain is kicked out for going beyond his ratios, this means that all the other transactions downstream are also on the rocks. In practical terms, what this now means is that there is no such thing as a “clear to close” approval. A clear to close means that all of the prior to close conditions have been signed off on and that the loan is moved into the closing department. Real estate attorneys traditionally demand to see that a loan is clear to close before they will waive on their client’s mortgage contingency (which protects their client’s earnest money), and many attorneys won’t set a closing until they have this in writing. Now, even if you have a written loan approval with all the conditions signed off, it still isn’t a real approval, because something could still come up on the credit report the day of the closing, either with your buyer or one further up the chain.

Another potential issue is that Fannie Mae states in the initiative that they are concerned with the items on the credit report and how they affect the borrower’s purchasing power. The initiative doesn’t mention credit scores, but I’m betting that some lenders will look at this in a more conservative way. If they interpret this as having to pull a full credit report, and if scores are stated, this too could effect the loan approval. Many loan programs are based on credit scores, and if the score drops prior to closing will that mean the loan no longer fits the guidelines? This could be another can of worms.

So long story short, be aware that your credit use can affect your loan approval even after you have an initial approval. Here is what you need to watch out for until the loan has closed:

First of all, don’t take on any debt that you can’t comfortably afford.

Don’t open any new credit accounts, don’t buy a car or even furniture or appliances with no payments for the next six months. All of these will have to be accounted for.

Put your credit cards on hold until closing. You can make your normal monthly purchases, but don’t buy anything out of the ordinary.

If you absolutely have to buy something, check with your loan officer first and make sure you document the new credit.

Think twice before having someone pull your credit. Even if you don’t take on new debt the credit inquiry looks like you are and will need to be explained.

The initiative is strictly with Fannie Mae at this point, but usually whatever Fannie does Freddie Mac quickly follows, and FHA is likely to adopt these regulations, too. Even if they don’t, many lenders will take the initiative and run these on every loan to shield themselves from liability. So this is likely to become an industry standard.

Peter Thompson 630-479-6424

Illinois Mortgage Rates                   First time home buyer loans

Chicago Mortgage Company

If you are a first time home buyer just starting to look around and explore your options, you’ve probably  heard that FHA is the way to go. If you have friends or relatives who bought their first home recently, chances are they bought their new home with an FHA loan. FHA is the best and most popular option for most first time home buyers here in the Chicago area, but in many ways FHA still gets a bad rap. On a regular basis I have clients who start the process excited to know they can buy a home they can afford, only to grow hesitant when older friends or relatives tell them they should get a conventional loan. Over Christmas a client’s Uncle told her she was making a mistake and FHA mortgages were only for poor people. Another couple’s Realtor told them not to use FHA for a home with some property damage, and that they would be better going with a conventional loan. In both cases these people were well intentioned, but wrong. Most FHA home buyers are middle class and just starting out, and if the property needs repairs they will have to be taken care of whether it is FHA or a conventional loan.

FHA has grown in popularity because in many cases it is the only option available for most first time home buyers. Conventional mortgages are loans backed by the big GSEs, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. Not long ago, when the housing market was booming and home values were skyrocketing, conventional mortgage guidelines were so easy that almost anyone (literally anyone) could qualify for a mortgage. It turned out that letting unqualified people buy over priced homes wasn’t a good idea in the long run, and ever since then, conventional mortgage guidelines have been in a continual tightening process. There are still conventional mortgages available with a 5% down payment, but most home buyers won’t qualify for these loans, and if they do, loan level price adjustments (pricing add-ons) and high mortgage insurance premiums will make the cost prohibitively high. FHA has taken up the slack by offering loan products that first time home buyers can afford and qualify for.

Here are some of the advantages of financing your Chicago area home with and FHA mortgage:

1. Low down payment – FHA requires only a 3.5% down payment. So if you are buying a $200,000 home, the required down payment is just $7,000. With tax refunds in the mail soon, this is a number that is do-able for many young singles and couples.
2. The down payment and all the cash needed to close can come from a gift – If you haven’t been able to save up a down payment, or you are close but still short, you can get all the cash you need from a gift from a relative. We will need to show the paper trail on where the money came from and how it got into your account. Don’t transfer any money until after you consult with your mortgage loan officer.
3. FHA allows up to 6% of the sale price as a seller concession – In addition to the down payment, you will need to have money available for closing costs and to set up the escrow accounts. This comes out to thousands of dollars, more in areas like Chicago which charge a buyer transfer tax (.75% of the sale price here in Chicago). But you don’t need to save up for this or come up with it from your own funds. It is now common with an FHA loan to negotiate for the seller to pay the closing costs. Find out how much your costs are and what you need to ask for before making an offer on the property. You won’t need anywhere near the 6% (you can also use this credit to structure the purchase or lower your interest rate), but this is a great way to save cash when you need it the most.
4. Credit guidelines are more lenient and common sense – FHA is not a sub-prime mortgage, and if you have bad credit you aren’t going to be able to qualify. But most first time home buyers pay their bills on time, but it’s not uncommon that they have had a few dings in the past. Some times they’ve had serious issues they had to overcome. But FHA looks at the big picture, not just a number. FHA doesn’t have credit score requirements, but all the wholesale lenders now require a minimum 620 score. If you have had problems in the past we will need to understand what happened, why it happened and what you did to fix it. If we can show that the problems are behind you, you can qualify for an FHA mortgage.
5. Competitive interest rates and terms comparable to conventional – FHA mortgage rates are  surprisingly low. In most cases FHA rates will be with in an 1/8 or a ¼ of conventional rates, and if you have less than a 700 credit score, FHA rates are probably better.
6. Most borrowers can qualify for a higher amount with FHA – FHA allows higher housing and debt ratios than with conventional mortgages. You still need to do your own budget and make sure you feel comfortable with your payment, and we have to see that you can afford it, but with FHA you will be able to buy more home for your income.
7. More condos are financeable through FHA – one of the biggest advantages of FHA here in the Chicago area, is that it is much easier and less expensive to buy a condo with an FHA mortgage – especially if you have a low down payment. The FHA condo approval process is being changed now (spot loans are still available up through the end of January), but as the new process takes hold, more properties will eligible for FHA finance.
8. Multi unit homes (2-4 unit buildings) are easier and cheaper to buy with FHA – If you buy a 2 flat or a 3 or 4 unit building to live in one unit and rent out the others, you will pay more and need a higher down payment with a conventional loan. FHA treats small apartment building better. FHA lets you use more of the rental income to offset the mortgage payment (even if you have no experience as a landlord) and lets you buy with the same 3.5% down as you would with a single family home. Also, there are no hits to the pricing with FHA for 3-flats and 4-flats – with conventional you pay a lot more.
9. Allows non-occupant co borrowers (co-signers) so you can blend income – I’ve seen many cases where a couple is buying a home together, but for one reason or another, one partner isn’t able to qualify for the mortgage. FHA allows a relative to come on to the loan and blend their incomes in with the occupying borrowers, letting them buy a home where they otherwise couldn’t. This is also a good program where parents can help their kids who are just starting out.
10. FHA max mortgages have increased almost as high as conventional mortgages – For years, FHA was hardly used in the Chicago area because the loan amounts were too low compared to the values. That has changed. The maximum mortgage here in the greater Chicago area is now $410,000, right in line with the conventional mortgage limits. This means more buyers can take advantage FHA, even for higher priced homes.
11. 203k program is available for homes that need repairs and remodeling – Many of the homes for sale now are short sales or foreclosed properties. Foreclosures often have been neglected, and it is common that they have issues, sometimes minor, but often serious. Minor problems can be fixed before the close, but if it is a big problem like busted water pipes (because the big didn’t winterize the home), a new furnace or putting on a new roof, that isn’t possible. With an FHA 203k loan you can put the cost of the repairs into the loan and do the work after closing. This is a great way to buy a home in a distressed shape and add value with the repairs. You can also use the HA 203k for remodeling or putting in a new kitchen or bath.
12. FHA mortgages are assumable – This means that years from now when you sell your home, the new buyer can take over the loan under the same terms as you have. If interest rates go up in the next few years (and it’s a good bet that they will) you will e able to offer new buyers a mortgage with interest rates much lower than the market is offering. This means it will be easier to sell your home and your home is worth more than a home without low interest financing.

FHA loans aren’t the best option for everyone, if you have a good down payment and great credit a conventional loan is probably going to be right for you. But if you don’t have a lot to put down, have good but not perfect credit, want to buy a condo or for a host of other reasons (most first time home buyers here in Chicago), then FHA is the way to go. Remember, if you buy now along with all the other benefits of buying a home, you qualify for the First Time Home Buyer $8,000 Tax Credit – You need to have your contract together by April 30th. If you want to know if FHA is the best option for you, give me a call and we can see what works best for your personal situation.

Peter Thompson 630-479-6424

Illinois Mortgage Rates                   First time home buyer loans

Chicago Mortgage Company

Mortgage qualification guidelines are getting tighter again as Fannie Mae (along with FHA and Freddie Mac, one of the 3 big buyers of loans in the mortgage  market) is about to roll out the newest version of their Automatic Underwriting System (AUS), DU 8.0. Most loans are now approved through an AUS which is a type of artificial intelligence program. The systems grade each loan for risk and produce a decision which says whether the loan meets their standards, or not. Getting an AUS approval is just the first step. We still have to make sure that all the information entered into the system is correct (garbage in – garbage out) and even if the loan meets Fannie Mae’s guidelines, we need to make sure it fits the extra lender requirements and do all the other things needed to approve a loan. But the odds of getting a conventional loan closed without an AUS approval are beyond slim. It’s not going to happen. So when a new AUS system comes out, this is a big deal. Home buyers who are qualified to buy under the present guidelines, may not be able to qualify under the new rules. And with the release of DU 8.0, a lot of buyers are going to be outside looking in.

A lot of the changes will be tweaking the formula, and some of the changes are taking away programs which all the lenders stopped doing ages ago. The new release does away with expanded approval loans (those with riskier profiles) and raises the minimum credit score from 580to 620. But in the real world, lenders haven’t accepted expanded approval loans in the last 2 years, and with all the price hits included, anyone with a score below 680 is likely to get better pricing with an FHA loan. There are other changes, like a reduction in mortgage insurance requirements, which will lower the cost of financing for some home owners.

The biggest change in the new release is a maximum debt ratio of 45% – or possibly 50% with strong compensating factors. The debt ratio is the total of the new mortgage payment and all your other debt payments divided by your income. The idea behind the debt ratio is to make sure you are able to afford the mortgage and not taking on too much debt. A borrower with a lot of money in the bank and high credit scores is a much safer risk than someone with lower scores and no reserves, so they should be allowed to manage a higher debt load. Back in the old days when I first started doing mortgages (and dinosaurs roamed the earth) the back end ratio was set at 36% for conventional loan, so the 45% (or 50%) isn’t awful. When they adopted the AUS system, much higher ratios were allowed because they were looking at the entire risk profile, not just one number. With strong borrowers it wasn’t unusual to get approvals when the total debt was well over 55% of the income we were showing (many borrowers have income coming in which we can’t use to qualify).  This change will  mean that a lot of well qualified buyers who are able to make their payments, won’t qualify for a Fannie Mae loan. Freddie Mac hasn’t announced that they are following through with similar changes, yet, so for now there are still conventional alternatives for borrowers affected by these changes.

With these changes, FHA is likely to increase their market share, again. FHA is in the same boat as its cousins Fannie and Freddie in that they are under pressure to increase their loan quality and up their reserves. FHA has already announced that they will be tightening their guidelines too, but because FHA financing was just a sliver of the market when the housing bubble was expanding, it doesn’t have the same level of problems that its conventional cousins do. Also, FHA is set up as a way to make financing affordable for more home buyers, so even as they tighten, they will still offer more opportunities to qualify. FHA has a stated back end ratio of 43%, but when run through the AUS much higher ratios are common. You are only hurting yourself if you buy more than you can afford, but there are so many situations where a one size fits all approach doesn’t apply. It’s good that is still an option. At least for now.

Illinois Mortgage Rates                   First time home buyer loans  

We Lend in All 50 States

Peter Thompson (630) 479-6424

UPDATE – It’s official. President Obama signed the bill on Friday November 6th and the bill is now law.

As expected, the Senate has now passed the bill extending the home buyers tax credit and expanding it so that move up buyers will also now qualify. The tax credit was an add-on to a bill that extends aid to the long term unemployed, and it passed by a 98 to 0 margin (you don’t see that very often these days). The current first time home buyers tax credit was due to expire at the end of this month. The new bill will extend the date to properties that are under contract by the end of April, and they will have until the end of June to close. It also expands the credit (at $6,500 instead of $8,000) to move up buyers who have lived in their homes for at least five consecutive years out of the last eight. The bill won’t become a law until it is signed by President Obama, but this is sure to happen soon.

This extension won’t give an immediate boost to the market. Most of the first time home buyers who were ready to buy have already taken advantage of the credit or are in process and set to close by the end of November. The season is also a factor, as December is usually the slowest month of the year for real estate sales. Most home buyers take a break during the holidays, and the cold weather (at least here in the Chicago area) keeps more home buyers indoors. I don’t think this will bring in a flood of move up buyers, either. In order for a home owner to buy a second or move up home, they will need to sell their current home first. A big part of the first time home buyers market is focused on the short sales and foreclosures, which takes inventory off the market, but doesn’t lead to a new sale higher up the chain. Still, this will help the Spring market get off to a faster start, and it could cause some fence sitting home owners to make the plunge and start looking for a new bigger home, which meets their current needs.

Here are the details of the New Home Buyers Tax Credit:

1. The credit is for 10% of the purchase price up to a maximum of $8,000 for first time home buyers and up to $6,500 for qualified move up buyers. This means that if you are a first time home buyer and your purchase is $80,000 or more, the credit will be $8,000.
2. The credit is good for properties that are under contract by April 30^th and you have until the end of June to get the financing together and close.
3. It is now available for first time home buyers (a first time home buyer is anyone who hasn’t owned a home in the last 3 years) and move up buyers who have lived in their home for 5 consecutive years out of the last 8.
4. The home has to be for your primary residence. Second homes and investment properties don’t qualify.
5. This is a true tax credit. As long as you stay in the home at least 3 years, the credit is yours to keep. If you sell before 3 years is up, you may need to pay the credit back.
6. If your tax liability is less than the $8,000 credit ($6,500 for move up buyers), you will get the difference as a check back to you. If you have already filed your taxes, you can file an amended tax return in order to take the tax credit in the current year and get the money back quicker.
7. Income caps apply. They have increased the income caps so more home buyers will now qualify. A single buyer qualifies as long as they earn up to $125,000 per year, and couples are maxed out at $225,000 per year. Higher earning borrowers may get a partial credit, but the amount decreases as their income rises.

To take advantage of the credit you will need to file an IRS 5405 form along with your HUD1 closing statement showing that you have closed on the home. If you have any questions or need to be pre-approved for a mortgage, let me know.

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Mortgage rates have dropped again, and we are now back in the all time low range we were at earlier this year. If you didn’t refinance your mortgage earlier this year, it might be time to look at it again and see if lowering your mortgage rate and payment would help you now. A few years back refinancing your mortgage was an automatic any time that mortgage rates dropped. It is more complicated now because mortgage guidelines have gotten tighter, making it harder for some to qualify, and with home prices down it isn’t a slam dunk that your home will appraise out to the value needed. But there are programs which make it easier to refinance even if you don’t have a lot of equity (or none) in your home.

The FHA Sreamline Refinance – This is available only if you already have an FHA mortgage. This (up until it changes in November 2009) is the easiest and most inexpensive mortgage around. If you can lower your rate an payment you can refinance without a new appraisal or credit qualifying, and roll most of your costs into the new loan.

FHA refinance – With this program you will still need to show that you qualify and we will need to order a new appraisal, but for a refinance where you aren’t taking any cash out, you can refinance up to 96.5% of the home’s value.

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac Home Affordable (Obama Refinance) – These programs are ways to lower your rate even if your home value has gone down. Most lenders will now accept up to 100% of your current value, and mortgage insurance will be based on what it was when you originally took on the loan.

Refinancing can make a lot of sense if you are lowering your rate and payment without incurring a lot of up-front costs. The more you pay up-front to close the loan, the longer it will take for the lower mortgage payments to pay off the higher cost of getting the loan. This can still make sense if you are sure that you will be in the home for a long time, and you want to lock in the lowest rates. But too often the lowest rate isn’t the best value. If you are thinking of refinancing your mortgage, you should always do a break even or pay back calculation. For this you need to know 3 things:

1. How much will you save by refinancing?
2. How much will it cost to refinance?
3. How long do you think you will stay in the home, and with this mortgage?

To find out how long it will take for you to break even, figure out how much your loan will cost you (the bank fees and title charges on your Good Faith Estimate) and divide this by the amount you will save on a monthly basis (the difference between your new mortgage payment and your current payment). This will give you the amount of months that it will take to pay off the closing costs and break even on your new loan. For example, if it costs you $1,600 (this is what I am currently quoting for bank fees and title charges for a no point loan in the Chicago area) and you are saving $50 per month, it will take you 32 months to break even, and every month after that you will be saving money.

On the other hand, if the loan cost more to close, you should be saving a lot more each month. For another example, let’s say you are paying a point (1% of the loan amount) and the cost of the new loan is now $4,600. If your new payment is now $100 better than what you are currently paying, it will take 46 months ($4,600 divided by 100) before you break even. So even though the rate on the second option is lower, and the monthly savings are higher, the first option is going to be better for the near term. You then need to decide how long you think you will be in the loan, and if it makes sense to pay the extra to get the long term benefit. In many cases it will, but in most cases it takes about five years to pay off any up front points. You need to see which option makes the most sense for your own situation. You can also go the other way. Instead of paying points or closing costs, for many borrowers the best option is a no cost refinance. With this program the lender increases the rate slightly and uses the yield spread premium (what we are paid to make the loan) to pay all the closing costs.

I’ve heard all sorts of rules of thumb of when it makes sense to refinance, but each situation is different. It would take a big rate reduction to make sense to refinance a small loan, but with a larger loan a small reduction in rate could pay off quickly. Run the numbers yourself (or give me a call and I can walk you through the options) and you will make the decision that works best for you.

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If you are a first time home buyer looking to buy and close on a condo before the November 30^th tax credit deadline, things just got a little easier. FHA just pushed back the date that the new condo approval process starts from October 1^st back to November 2nd. FHA has been the go to program for home buyers who don’t have a big down payment saved up, and the FHA spot condo has been on fire over the last year. The FHA spot loan is a way for buyers to purchase condos that aren’t on the FHA approved list (most condos aren’t) as long as they meet FHA guidelines. The program has been a great boon to home buyers, but there were a lot of otherwise well managed properties that didn’t fit the guidelines. At the beginning of the summer HUD announced that they were overhauling the process for approving condos. The new FHA Condo approval process means that a lot more properties will be eligible for FHA financing, but it will eliminate spot loans and all the condos on the approved list (except those approved in the last 12 months) will need to be re-approved. The new rules were supposed to take place on October 1^st, and a log jam of applications was expected since all FHA Direct Endorsement lenders need to submit 5 test cases before they are able to approve condos under the new guidelines. Pushing the deadline back a month means condo buyers (and here in the Chicago area, this is a good portion of first time buyers) now have more time to find and close on their condo purchase.

If you want to see what is currently on the FHA condo approval list, here is the FHA condo search tool. (The search works best for if you search by zip code – Search Pre- HRAP/DELRAP to see what was on the old approved list.)

If you are looking at a condo that isn’t on the list, an FHA spot loan may be the best option. This means we will approve the building at the same time we approve your loan. If you’ve identified a property and want to see if it will work, the first thing you should do is talk with your mortgage lender and have them get an FHA condo questionnaire sent out for the building. This way you will get a quick idea of whether the property will work, before spending a lot of time and money trying to find out.

Here is what is needed for an FHA condo spot approval:

• The condominium project must be complete, including all common areas and facilities.
• Control of the common areas must have been turned over to the homeowners
• association for at least one year.
• The owners association must provide evidence that the project has the appropriate
• hazard, liability and flood insurance.
• Individual units in the project must be owned fee simple. The project’s legal documents must provide for undivided ownership of common areas by unit owners.
• The project’s documents should not place any legal restrictions on conveyance. Any provisions that seek to limit the free transferability of title is unacceptable. Such restrictions include rights of first refusal and restrictive covenants.
• At least 90% of the units in the project must have been sold.
• At least 51% of the units in the project must be owner occupied.
• No single entity may own more than 10% of the units in a project. The 10% restriction does not apply when the ownership of less than four units would disqualify an otherwise eligible project. The Department recognized that the 10% cap on the number of units that may secure FHA insured mortgages in a given project can place a small regime at a disadvantage, since only a few units will invoke the limit. Accordingly, a two tiered system was established. For condominium projects having more than 30 units, no more than 10% of the units may have FHA insured loans at any given time.
• Condominium projects consisting of 30 units or less, can have up to 20% of the units encumbered by FHA insured mortgages under the spot loan rule.

This system will be changing soon, and the new process will make FHA financing available for a lot of homes that aren’t eligible now. But there will be some problems along the way until everyone gets the bugs out of this new system. With the extra 30 days now is the time to take advantage of the spot loan, before it goes away for good.

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About a month ago, I wrote that it was too early to panic if you were a first time home buyer and counting on the $8,000 first time home buyer tax credit. Home sales have been inching up each month, and a big part of the increase is due to first time home buyers. The $8,000 tax credit is a big incentive, and predictions call for a surge in first time home purchases as the November deadline approaches. But it takes more time than most people realize to find and finance a home, and too much of the process is outside of the buyers control. Too many things can happen to delay a closing, or worse, kill the deal. If you are one of those people who wait until the last minute to get things done (I know I’m guilty of that), this isn’t like pulling an all-nighter to get your term paper done the day before it’s due. There are a host of parties involved in any real estate transaction, and you are at their mercy when it comes to timing. So is it time to panic yet? The answer is still no, but the clock is ticking and that time is approaching faster than you might think.

Here are some things which may add extra time to your purchase:

Are you looking at short sales or foreclosures? Some of the best bargains on the market now are short sales and foreclosures. These distressed transactions now make up about 40% of the sales here in the Chicago area. These can be great bargains, but don’t expect the deal to come together quickly. With a short sale you need to not only get the seller to agree, but also the bank that holds the mortgage. Some of the banks are now responding quickly, but it’s not uncommon to put in an offer and wait for a month or longer (sometimes much longer) before the bank makes a decision. If short sales and foreclosures are on your list to look at, you don’t have a lot of time to waste.

Are you looking for the right home, or just any old home? When you have more time to look, you can afford to be picky. When a deadline fast approaching, too many buyers are going to settle on the first home that is acceptable and not the home that is right for them. Avoiding the last minute rush gives you more control.

Do you have problems you don’t know about? – One of the major factors in your loan approval is your FICO score. All loans, both conventional and FHA, now have established minimum scores for approval, and pricing is based on how high your scores are. One of the things I see on almost a daily basis is people who are surprised about what comes up on their credit report. This could be a matter of incorrect or outdated information, or it could be a real issue which you need to address. Either way, if we have time we have a better chance of fixing the problem then if you don’t find out about it until the last minute. This is one of the main reasons it makes sense to get pre-approved for a mortgage before you even start looking for a home.

Everything will take longer as we get closer to the deadline – Once you have your contract together, getting the mortgage done on time is the major hurdle. Right now we are processing loans and closing quickly, but a few months back when the system was overloaded with refinances, everything took a lot longer. As purchases pick up over the next few months, we expect a back log as we get closer to the date. And if rates drop again, and refinances pick up again, this will cause more of a back log. We, like many companies, have ramped up our staff and are ready for the higher volume, but I still hear about many mortgage companies who are taking 60 days or longer to get a loan to closing. When you are ready to close, make sure you ask your loan officer if they can get the loan done on time, and if they can guarantee that you will hit the dates in the contract.

What is the properties condition? It’s becoming more and more common to see homes that need repairs before they can close, especially with the foreclosures. Sometimes these are small things, and a lot of buyers are getting access before the close and making the repairs themselves (the banks usually won’t). But often the repairs are too extensive and cost too much. For these situations an FHA 203K loan is a great solution, but this will take more time to put together and close. I’ll write more about the 203K loan soon, but if you are looking at this as a possibility, you should get moving soon.

Are there any issues with the title? Another issue that you may not even know about until close to the closing is if there are any title issues. The title is usually pulled by the sellers attorney, and it gives a history of the property’s ownership, and shows if any liens are outstanding. If something shows up on the title, this will need to be cleared up before you are able to close. If you are near the deadline, this could be enough to push you over, losing out on the $8,000 tax credit.

There are some other new wrinkles to the mortgage process which will also add to the time required for the mortgage and the closing. The new HVCC appraisal requirements means that the appraisers aren’t as service oriented as they were before, and as volume picks up it will take longer to get an appraisal back. There are also new Truth in Lending rules which just went into effect, and if the APR on a loan changes by 1/8 of a point, either up or down, the Truth in Lending will need to be re-disclosed and there is a mandatory delay of the closing. There is a whole list of items which affect the APR including not only bank fees, but title charges and tax stamps, so until the industry gets this one down there is a potential for delay.

The bottom line is that it’s not time to panic yet, but you may have less time than you think. If you want to make sure you do everything in your control to close on time (and allow for those items out of your control) you should start soon.

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Some of life’s decisions are more momentous than others. Where you go to school, who you marry, what career you will pursue or where you buy your first home, these decisions are biggies, and they will shape what happens in your life going forward. Who you work with to get a mortgage? Not so much. Using a bad mortgage lender won’t change your life. But it will make for a miserable experience while you are going through it. A lot of people look at a mortgage as a commodity, especially now when the entire market is made up of fixed rate conventional or FHA loans. The truth is, who you choose, both from a company and individual standpoint, will make a big difference in the price you pay and how satisfied you are with your experience. If you are in the market to buy a home, it pays to do more than shop for the best rate and fees. You also need to know who can best help you with your situation.

I’m not saying that rates and fees aren’t important. They are, and you should ask for a written Good Faith estimate from any lender you consider using. But rates and fees are only one piece of the puzzle. You need to ask some questions and do some research about both the company who will make the loan, and the loan officer who will work with you to make sure you are getting the right fit for you and your situation.

Here are some things to consider when choosing what mortgage lender, and what loan officer you want to deal with:

The mortgage lender:

What kind of company is it? – There are several different types of lenders – banks or direct lenders, mortgage brokers and mortgage bankers. Each one makes mortgage loans, but they each do it in different ways. Mortgage brokers usually have a number of options on where they will place the loan which may help with the pricing, but they have the least control over the loan process. Banks and direct lenders usually have only one source for the loan, themselves. This means that if they are looking for more business they may be aggressive with their pricing, but once their pipelines fill up the pricing may quickly get uncompetitive. Banks and direct lenders usually control the process, but they often do everything from remote processing locations so the loan officer has little contact with the loan once it leaves his hands. Mortgage bankers are hybrids between the two, and they often have multiple sources of lending, like brokers, but retain most of the control, like bankers.

Who will order the appraisal and what happens if you need to switch lenders? This is a question that has only recently become an issue, since the adoption of the HVCC appraisal guidelines. With these new guidelines the loan officer has no direct contact with the appraiser as a way to make sure that the loan officer doesn’t pressure the appraiser into giving higher values for the properties. The problem comes with the details of the guidelines. In many cases it is the end lender who the loan will be locked in with who orders the appraisal. This not only means less control, but if you are denied with that lender or decide to switch lenders for some reason (like when rates drop), you will need to start all over again with a new appraisal from the new lender. This isn’t the case with all lenders, but it is something you should check on and a question to be asked at the beginning of the process.

How long will it take to approve the loan? The mortgage business has slowed down over the last few months as the refinance boom died down. But right now there are some companies that can close loans quickly, and others that still need a minimum of 60 days and sometimes 90 days before they will be able to close. A lot of this comes down to control. Do they do their processing and underwriting in house? Or do they ship the loan off for these loan functions? What are their underwriting turn times? Who puts together the closing documents? Will they be able to meet the contract contingency date and the close date? These are all questions you should ask up front, so you aren’t surprised down the road.

Is the lender set up to do the loan that is best for you? Not every lender has the same inventory of loan options. For example, FHA the best loan available for most first time home buyers, was not a real factor in the market until the last 2 years. It now accounts for almost half of the loans taken on. Does the lender offer FHA or will they try and steer you into another option, or say you need a much larger down payment to buy? If they can do FHA, will they broker out the loan or are they a direct endorsement FHA lender? The same goes with other programs. Check to make sure that the lender has the program you need and is able to work it for your benefit.

What is the company’s reputation? Ask your Realtor or a real estate attorney what they know of the company. Do a Google search and see what comes up.

The loan officer

Choosing the right company is critical, but it is the loan officer who will be your day to day contact. A good loan officer can make a world of difference, while a bad will make your experience a case study in frustration. The loan officer’s job is to bring in good loans for the company. The loan officer is like a concierge and a guide. Their job is to qualify you for the mortgage, find the program that works best for you, make sure that your situation fits within the guidelines of the program, get the initial approval, and gather all the documentation needed. The loan officer works with a team on the inside, but he may be your only contact throughout the loan process.

Here are some things to ask any loan officer you are considering:

How long have you been in the mortgage business? There are good new and even rookie loan officers, but as a rule, experience is a plus. Most situations will fit within the lending guidelines, but there are always wrinkles, in a situation or a property, which can cause problems. If someone has worked with a similar situation before, they may be able to smooth out the wrinkle early in the process before it becomes a real problem.

Does the loan officer work with the type of loan that is best for you? Again, using FHA as the example, if this is the best program for your needs (and it is for most first time home buyers) you want to work with someone who knows the ins and outs of the program.

How well does your loan officer communicate with you? This is a little thing, but one that can make a big difference. Does he return your phone calls in a timely manner? Does he communicate the way that works best for you (phone, email, whatever)? If you have questions, does he get back to you with an answer? If there is a problem, does he tell you about it, or just stop taking your calls? If you aren’t communicating on the same level, expect a frustrating experience.

Have you built a rapport with the loan officer? Going from pre-approval to finding a home and closing on it normally takes at least a few months. During this time you will be relying on your loan officer to give you the best advice throughout the transaction. Do you trust and few comfortable with him? Does the advice make sense to you? Does he understand your situation and your future goals, or is it just a matter of quoting rates? If there is a problem, do you think he will go to bat for you, or take the easy way out?

Buying a new home can be a great experience, but make sure you do your home work first. Picking the right company and the right loan officer will reduce your stress and give you a much better chance of getting to a smooth closing on time.

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